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Woo-hoo! Time to shove this little LED into action!<\/p>\n\n\n\n
Here\u2019s this pretty one, such a wonderfully transparent color. If we\u2019re lucky, it\u2019ll light up blue. Let\u2019s see\u2026 It needs a resistor to pair with. Which one? Hmm\u2026 Interesting. What voltage is this LED rated for? Who knows \u2014 the bees must have dropped it off from the sky onto my desk.<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n Alright, let\u2019s grab a heftier resistor, just in case it doesn\u2019t burn out. This one, perhaps\u2026 Hmm\u2026 It\u2019s not lighting up at all \u2014 resistor\u2019s too hefty. Let\u2019s set this resistor aside and grab another\u2026 Oh, something\u2019s starting to glow\u2026 Set this one aside and grab another\u2026 Better, but not quite there\u2026 Set this one aside and grab another\u2026 Ahhh, my eyes! Too bright!!! Set this one aside and grab another\u2026 Set this one aside and grab another\u2026 Set this one aside and grab another\u2026<\/em><\/p>\n\n\n\n There \u2014 now it\u2019s just right. Ah, perfect\u2026 Hmm, why is there such a pile of resistors on my desk? I wonder which one came from where and what value it is? Let me just scoop this mess into a jar for now \u2014 I\u2019ll sort it out later\u2026<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n Sad, isn\u2019t it? But it gets even sadder when that infamous \u201clater\u201d finally arrives, and I try to sort through that jar of resistors, now holding a good hundred or so, dividing them by value. That\u2019s when a new kind of hell begins:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Alright, the pile\u2026 Let\u2019s handle it\u2026 So\u2026 There should be markings on these\u2026 Stripes\u2026 Like on this one, for example\u2026 Do I read them left to right or right to left? Supposedly, by the standard, the gap before the last stripe should be wider\u2026 Or was it the other way around?\u2026 Hmm\u2026 Oh well, doesn\u2019t matter \u2014 bless those wonderful folks in China \u2014 the gaps are all the same anyway\u2026 Okay, let\u2019s try to guess.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Alright, let\u2019s say this stripe is the first one. It\u2019s red\u2026 Or maybe brown\u2026 Or orange\u2026 Probably closer to red\u2026 Bless you, China\u2026 The second stripe is blue\u2026 Or purple\u2026 Or green\u2026 You know what? Let me grab my multimeter!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Alright\u2026 Doesn\u2019t read on the 2 range\u2026 Click over to 20\u2026 Still doesn\u2019t read\u2026 Click\u2026 Click\u2026 Damn it, the crocodile clip fell off! Let\u2019s start over\u2026 Oh! It\u2019s reading now\u2026 380.42K\u2026 Wow. What do I do with this? Clearly, it\u2019s just rounding errors, so it\u2019s probably 360K\u2026 Then again, it might be 400K\u2026 Let me borrow my friend\u2019s lab-grade ohmmeter, the one that\u2019s \u201caccurate to the king\u2019s whisker!\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n Alright\u2026 Whoa, fancy! It does the selection automatically, no fiddling with the dial. Cool! Let\u2019s see, let\u2019s see\u2026 Ah, here we go: 380.416732K\u2026 Wow\u2026 And what do I do with that?\u2026 Damn it!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Fine, let\u2019s just say it\u2019s 400K. Decision made. Into the 400K box it goes. One resistor from the pile sorted. Only a godzillion left\u2026 Or maybe I\u2019ll just dump them back into the jar? I\u2019ll deal with it later\u2026<\/p>\n<\/div><\/div>\n\n\n\n I think I\u2019ve managed to lay out the full depth and essence of my deeply personal drama with resistors.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Then again, maybe this drama might feel painfully familiar to someone else? I mean, I can\u2019t be the only one, after all\u2026 So, if that\u2019s the case, welcome to my club of Anonymous Mess-Makers. Let\u2019s tackle this head-on!<\/p>\n\n\n\n Alright, let\u2019s begin\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n Hello. My name is Jim. I am a mess-maker. My life was full of chaos, disorder, and despair. I lost everything! My inspiration, my motivation, my restful sleep, the bees\u2026 But then, I invented the amazing AUTOMATED TWEEZER OHMMETER \u201cRESISTING MANTIS\u201d! My life turned around instantly! Inspiration came back, good vibes returned, I slept like a baby, Elvis Presley made a comeback, and the Pok\u00e9mon\u2026 they came back too\u2026<\/p>\n<\/blockquote>\n\n\n\n At first, I scoured DIY forums and blogs in search of help. In the overwhelming majority of cases, I stumbled upon something along these lines<\/a>:<\/p>\n\n\n\n It\u2019s not just this particular person \u2014 it\u2019s the same with everyone. Seriously, everyone! I mean, maybe there are some rare gems in the vast DIY jungle who don\u2019t follow this pattern, but I\u2019ve yet to stumble upon one\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n At best, these projects are on the level of, let\u2019s say, a middle school soldering lab experiment. But in this common state \u2014 as it is for all of them \u2014 it\u2019s absolutely useless for easing the life of a chronic mess-maker like myself. And that\u2019s where all those musings at the start of the post about the \u201clast step\u201d came from.<\/p>\n\n\n\n It became clear that if this \u201clast step\u201d was ever going to happen, it\u2019d be up to me to make it. Naturally, I went through all the necessary stages:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Bring me Autodesk Inventor and Fritzing on my desktop! Kekeke! It\u2019s time to think some big thoughts!<\/p>\n\n\n\n The idea:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Next comes the usual process of modeling and designing, with the goal of merging a hedgehog with a boa constrictor \u2014 without inadvertently unleashing yet another world-ending \u201cwhatever-virus.\u201d Or at the very least, preserving some semblance of intelligent life within the confines of my own home.<\/p>\n\n\n\n When it comes to electronics, everything was invented long before I came along. The circuit itself, along with an explanation of how it works, can be found with a quick Google search. The only minor difference in my circuit compared to the ones you\u2019ll find by the dozens on any Arduino forum is the use of an OLED display instead of an LCD and the addition of extra control buttons:<\/p>\n\n\n\n All components can be roughly divided into five distinct groups.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The switch is just a simple toggle \u2014 nothing fancy. It\u2019s wired directly into the power line to turn the device on and off.<\/p>\n\n\n\n As for the battery\u2026 I didn\u2019t want to mess with any compact lithium-ion setups. The space you\u2019d save with them would inevitably get eaten up by the charging circuit anyway. And, honestly, I\u2019m not a fan of that whole ordeal: monitoring charge levels, recharging, fiddling with those flimsy USB connectors. I find it much easier to just swap out a battery. Especially since a regular 9-volt battery will last for years with this kind of low power consumption.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The only hard rule: no crappy \u201ctails\u201d! I hate those things with the fire of a thousand suns. It\u2019s an instant rage trigger \u2014 pure, unfiltered loathing. They\u2019re an abomination. Any device with a 9-volt battery sporting one of those sad, flimsy \u201ctails\u201d immediately drops in value for me to the level of \u201cchuck it at the inventor\u2019s face until death\u201d followed by desecration of the corpse and grave.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Unfortunately, sometimes there\u2019s no other option with store-bought electronics, and my hatred for those \u201ctails\u201d only deepens because of it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The path of a true samurai on this planet is a proper, solid battery holder securely mounted to the case. None of that shameful spaghetti mess.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Nano. That\u2019s it \u2014 that\u2019s all there is to say about this \u201cdevice group.\u201d Sure, you could use a Mini, but what\u2019s the point? The other components dictate an overall size that could practically house a server room with air conditioning and a diesel generator. The 9-volt battery alone takes up enough space to qualify as a brick.<\/p>\n\n\n\n This group consists of PNP transistors (in my case, the universally beloved 2N3906) along with their supporting circuitry. This is essentially the ohmmeter itself. The principle behind its operation, when paired with the Arduino, is well documented in the project link I provided earlier. Here\u2019s the link again, just in case.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For this \u201cdevice group,\u201d I had to fabricate a dedicated PCB. Point-to-point wiring just wouldn\u2019t cut it here. I went old-school and used a laser engraver to make it. Ordering from the Chinese manufacturers takes too long these days, plus their minimum order quantity is three to five boards. Why would I need more than one?<\/p>\n\n\n\n The PCB is single-sided and simple enough to make in a single session using any accessible method \u2014 laser engraving, CNC milling, or etching \u2014 in about an hour or two.<\/p>\n\n\n\n However, if anyone feels inspired to replicate this project, I\u2019ll include a complete archive at the end of this write-up. It will have everything, including the Gerber files for this PCB. Whether you want to laser-cut it, CNC-mill it, etch it, or order it from China, the choice is yours.<\/p>\n\n\n\n OLED. A \u201cdual-color\u201d model (the first 16 lines of pixels are yellow, the rest \u2014 blue).<\/p>\n\n\n\n Why? Well, first of all, I personally find it brighter and more legible than the LCD displays commonly used in such projects. Secondly, it\u2019s more compact, yet it can display just as much \u2014 if not more \u2014 information at once. Thirdly, it supports i2c communication with the Arduino out of the box, whereas with an LCD you\u2019d either need an onboard or external controller, or an absurd number of wires connected to the Arduino, making it act as the controller itself. And fourth\u2026 well, I happen to have about a dozen of these OLEDs lying around in my stash. As for LCDs, I\u2019ve got just one \u2014 a large, four-line, gorgeous piece with an i2c controller onboard. It\u2019s all shiny and fancy, and frankly, I couldn\u2019t justify wasting it on something this trivial \ud83d\ude42.<\/p>\n\n\n\n These are more of a \u201cluxury\u201d feature that came about during the later stages of the design process, once it was clear that everything was going to work and exactly how it would function.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The first button toggles the display format of the resistor\u2019s value between \u201cclassic\u201d and \u201cmodern.\u201d<\/p>\n\n\n\n To keep it brief, the \u201cclassic\u201d format would show something like \u201c2.2k\u03a9,\u201d while the \u201cmodern\u201d format displays the same value as \u201c2K2.\u201d The modern format emerged because not all beloved manufacturers from China include the ohm symbol in their printers\u2019 character sets. Or maybe they\u2019re just unaware of its existence. So, on schematics, diagrams, and packaging, they came up with using letters like R, K, and M in place of the decimal point. It\u2019s more compact, doesn\u2019t require the ohm symbol, saves ink, and optimizes production \u2014 all that good stuff.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In my stash, the resistors that are still somewhat sorted are kept in their original boxes, which are labeled in both styles depending on when, where, and from whom I bought them. To minimize mental strain and sort resistors by just glancing at the screen, it\u2019s convenient to switch the display format to match the labeling style of the boxes I\u2019m currently working with. It\u2019s a small, pleasant, and genuinely helpful feature. Why not?<\/p>\n\n\n\n The second button toggles between E12 and E24 \u201cselection tables.\u201d Why, you ask? Well, here\u2019s the thing\u2026 Of course, like every other DIYers, I first built everything on a breadboard:<\/p>\n\n\n\n And the results from that breadboard setup were so unimpressive that I almost abandoned the project altogether. The variance was ridiculous!<\/p>\n\n\n\n The measurement accuracy was such that I might as well have been measuring resistors using coffee grounds. It didn\u2019t even come close to the E24 resolution. With E12, it worked maybe 80% of the time, if I was really lucky. Essentially, it was the classic case of \u201cthe game\u2019s not worth the candle,\u201d as every second comment on forums about this topic suggests. Because very few people move beyond this stage. Unfortunately, those who do usually refrain from online battles, smirk knowingly, clearly understand something, but remain silent.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I decided to trust those knowing smirks, assuming the issues were due to poor connections and a janky setup. And, as it turns out, I was right! The finished product, built on a proper PCB with good routing and soldering, not only handles E24 perfectly but could even venture into E48 territory with decent accuracy.<\/p>\n\n\n\n But when I started working on the breadboard version, I could only speculate about this. So, the initial Arduino code only included a short E12 table, which was enough to debug everything at the start. Later, after assembling the proper PCB, getting bald from sheer joy at the results, joining the ranks of the knowingly smirking, and adding the E24 table to the program, I thought, \u201cWhy delete E12?\u201d Might as well leave it in. I\u2019m not exactly sure why, but there was plenty of memory left on the Arduino, and the case had a perfect spot for a second button\u2026 So, why not?<\/p>\n\n\n\n Formally, I even designed and routed a tiny PCB for the buttons. You\u2019ll find the Gerber file in the archive too. Use it however you like.<\/p>\n\n\n\n For my project, I didn\u2019t bother etching, cutting, or ordering this PCB. It\u2019s just too primitive. Instead, I soldered everything manually on a small piece of protoboard:<\/p>\n\n\n\n If not for the intricate shape of the case, I could have gone fully \u201cpoint-to-point\u201d with heat-shrink tubing and hot glue. After all, these are just buttons. Here, the \u201cprinciple of reasonable sufficiency\u201d is perfectly acceptable\u2026<\/p>\n\n\n\n With the electronics sorted out, it\u2019s time for the infamous \u201clast step,\u201d without which this whole project would have been utterly pointless and indistinguishable from the countless others already done by so many others.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Just like with the electronics, the tool I envisioned can be broken down into several independent components.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Instrument Compartment. This is the largest and most complex part of the tool, where all the electronics, including the battery, will be housed:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The \u201cinstrument compartment\u201c is mounted onto another part of the tool, which we\u2019ll call \u201cthe tweezers\u201d \u2014 because that\u2019s exactly what they are:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The design and shape of the tweezers themselves are not my invention. This kind of construction was developed long ago by 3D-printing enthusiasts specifically for plastic fabrication and has been used in countless versions and modifications by DIYers. All I had to do was adapt the concept to the required size and shape.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Pivoting Mount. A hinge-like mount connects the instrument compartment to the tweezers, giving it enough \u201cfreedom\u201d to position the display at an angle that\u2019s comfortable for viewing:<\/p>\n\n\n\n It\u2019s clear that the tweezers in your hand won\u2019t be held at a perfect 90-degree angle, nor will they align perfectly with the surface of the table from which you\u2019re picking up resistors for sorting. To save you from having to contort yourself into strange positions to read the display \u2014 peering under your elbow, for instance \u2014 the screen can be adjusted relative to the tweezers, the table, and your line of sight to find the most convenient position.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Probes. The third and most delicate part of the tool is the probes at the tips of the tweezers:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Despite their apparent complexity, the construction is fairly simple and addresses two critical aspects:<\/p>\n\n\n\n To address this, the entire design of the jaws is engineered to allow fine adjustment of their parallel alignment. This ensures proper contact between the tips at any resistor size or lead thickness, using normal pressure on the tweezers without requiring excessive force.<\/p>\n\n\n\n These carefully considered mechanical elements make the tool ergonomic, functional, and versatile, while also ensuring it can handle a wide variety of resistors with ease and precision.<\/p>\n\n\n\n While the printer was busy extruding the first part, the electronics were assembled in their final, permanent configuration, exactly as they would be placed inside the case:<\/p>\n\n\n\n To neatly route the wires without any unnecessary loops or dangling tails, they were temporarily tied to the boards with \u201ccable ties\u201d during soldering. These ties were, of course, cut off afterward:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The solder joints where the wires connect to the boards were reinforced with hot glue. In my view \u2014 possibly mistaken but firmly held \u2014 this is the sole legitimate use for hot glue: reinforcing solder points, rather than assembling structural parts, as seen all too often on DIY channels and blogs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The battery holder was a pre-made solution. These are plentiful and dirt-cheap on Amazon, so there\u2019s no point reinventing the wheel:<\/p>\n\n\n\n And here\u2019s how it all came together:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The bottom part of the \u201cinstrument compartment\u201d case:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The switch had to be glued directly to the battery holder using cyanoacrylate adhesive:<\/p>\n\n\n\n I tried a lot of different ideas for mounting the switch, but each time I concluded that gluing it was the simplest and most optimal solution.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The buttons and the OLED display are soldered to the Arduino and integrated into the top cover of the \u201cinstrument compartment\u201d case:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The assembly process itself went very quickly and smoothly, with no surprises. There wasn\u2019t even a need for significant post-processing or adjustments.<\/p>\n\n\n\n The only thing that limited the speed of the entire process was the printing time for the parts. For instance, the \u201ctweezers\u201d took 8 hours to print with a layer thickness of 0.06mm (!!), four perimeters, four solid top\/bottom layers, and a 45% honeycomb infill:<\/p>\n\n\n\n In terms of flexibility, it turned out absolutely perfect on the very first try.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I was also a bit worried that the relatively large and heavy “instrument compartment” sitting atop the “tweezers” might cause some discomfort during use, but those fears proved to be unfounded. Everything fits securely and naturally in hand:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The probe contacts were made using standard terminals. Here are all the steps involved in adapting one of them:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The terminals are crimped and glued into the tweezer tips:<\/p>\n\n\n\n The tips are then installed onto the tweezers:<\/p>\n\n\n\n Each pair of tips is connected with two wires \u2014 purely for reliability. Inside the “instrument compartment,” these pairs are combined into two main probe wires, as shown in the circuit diagram above.<\/p>\n\n\n\n Additionally, this setup makes it possible to adapt the tweezers for use with a bench-top laboratory ohmmeter (in that case, the “instrument compartment” is, of course, unnecessary). Bench ohmmeters usually require four wires for the probes.<\/p>\n\n\n\n In such cases, the pairs aren\u2019t paralleled. One pair is for measurement, and the other is for calibration.<\/p>\n\n\n\n I don\u2019t personally plan to use these tweezers in that capacity, but a friend specifically asked me to include the option. Apparently, if he likes how it turns out, he\u2019ll ask me to make a similar set of tweezers for his lab setup. So, I made the provision. You\u2019re welcome!<\/p>\n\n\n\n The Result of the Project:<\/p>\n\n\n\n![\"\"](\"https:\/\/jimsghost.place\/wp-content\/uploads\/2020\/03\/b28b292a-bc69-4722-a890-6078830fd2bf.webp\")
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The Probe<\/h3>\n\n\n\n
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Resistors come in all shapes and sizes \u2014 long legs, short legs, large bodies, tiny bodies. Naturally, the probes need to be adjustable to handle varying resistor dimensions.<\/li>\n\n\n\n
The operating principle of tweezers of this type dictates that when the jaws close, their front tips must meet first, leaving a gap between the rear points. While you could squeeze the tweezers harder to force the back points together via material flexibility, that\u2019s not the right approach.<\/li>\n<\/ol>\n\n\n\n
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